Kilimanjaro

I've never really thought about visiting Tanzania or climbing Kilimanjaro more than it was something I would like to do some day. BUt in April 2022 a friend of mine, Martin, asked if I'd like to climb it with him. We found cheap flights and booked not thinking about it 

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A lot appealed to me about the Camino; the challenge, the sense of achievement, meeting lots of different people and seeing lots of different places in northern Spain. As well as the spiritual enrichment such a pilgrimage brings.

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I flew to France to begin my walk at the traditional starting point of St. Jean Pied de Port in the Pyrenean foothills. In the airport before the flight, I was extremely nervous. I didn’t know where I would be sleeping that night, I didn’t really know how to get to the starting point, and I didn’t know if I was going to meet anyone my own age while doing the walk. The only thing I did know, was that my return flight was booked for 36 days later. But even that was worrying as I didn’t really know how long the walk was going to take.

My nerves quickly dissipated when I sat next to a man named John on the flight over. He was also heading to St. Jean to complete the Camino de Santiago for his third time. I had dozens of questions for him and he willingly obliged to answer them all.  John was like everyone you will meet on the Camino; kind, chatty and helpful. By the time John and I were on the train to St. Jean we had teamed up with five other Irish and this was the first of many groups I’d formulate on my journey.

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The most common route for the Camino de Santiago, is the Camino Frances. It starts in France about 16km from the Spanish border and brings you over the Pyrenees, and then through four Spanish regions; Navarre, La Rioja, Castilla y Leon and Galicia. Each region is very different and each very interesting. Navarre is a fiercely independent region of Spain (I passed many signs declaring “This is not Spain”) and Basque is widely spoken throughout. The Capital of Navarre, Pamplona, is the first big city you will walk through on the way. Famous for the running of the bulls in July each year it is steeped in history. Surrounded by giant walls, with its narrow streets and a remarkable Cathedral, the city is quite spectacular. I walked 15km into the city the day I arrived there, and another 15 walking around exploring.

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The next region is La Rioja. La Rioja is one of Spain’s smallest regions and it is it’s least populated. Famous for its wine, you pass through miles and miles of vineyards. There is one winery, on the outskirts of a city named Estella, which allows pilgrims to fill their water bottles with free wine from their very own wine fountain. While walking through Navarre and La Rioja you are on the “physical” part of the Camino Frances. The terrain is undulating, and your body isn’t used to walking for 8 hours a day. Nor is it used to carrying 10 kilos on your back. It is a baptism of fire and you put your body under a lot of stress during these first 10-15 days.

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The next region is Castilla y Leon. It is Spain’s largest province. The region is very flat and the walk from Burgos to Leon - the Meseta, is considered the “mental” part of the Camino Frances. Many pilgrims worry about The Meseta because it is mentally testing, and some choose to skip it. The flat ground can become tedious, and it is tough to keep motivated. Your body is also tired from the first 10 or so days of walking, so blisters and sore muscles add to the challenge.  However, it has so much to offer. Castilla y Leon has more than 60% of all of Spain’s heritage sites so there is plenty of architecture, cultural and historical sites to see along the way. The flat walking allows you to walk without really having to concentrate so this section allows for a lot of thinking time.

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The last region you will pass through is Galicia. It is Spain’s only Celtic region and much of the landscape is similar to Ireland. There are stone walls that would fit quite easily into any Irish landscape. Galicia is one of Spain’s poorest regions, especially to the east, away from the coast, where it predominately relies on traditional agriculture so has therefor seen a lot of emigration.

The third part of the journey, the part through Galicia, is the “spiritual” section. You are strong at this point, so you can appreciate the journey and your surroundings. You are nearing the end, so you take the time to reflect upon the journey you’ve taken, upon the places you’ve seen and the people you’ve met.

The finishing point of the Camino is in the capital of Galicia, Santiago de Compostela. As you walk into the city a bag pipe welcomes you down to the Cathedral where thousands of other pilgrims gather to take photos and congratulate each other.

Arriving at the finish is quite special and I would recommend making your last days walk quite short, so you have plenty of time to celebrate. If you choose to you can continue to walk for another three or four days to ‘The end of the world’ Finisterre. Finisterre was believed to be the end of the world in Roman times, so it makes for a very philosophical end point to your journey.

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There are over 1800 buildings of historical importance along the 779km from St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela and even more breath-taking views. The many churches, cathedrals, bridges and castles you pass along the way are a lasting testament to Spain’s former wealth and glory. Over a quarter of a million people do some part of the pilgrimage each year. Along the way I met people from all corners of the world; Ireland, Britain, France, Spain, Canada, The United States, Korea, Sweden, Australia, Portugal and South Africa. People were there for all sorts of reasons; spiritual, religious, sightseeing, fitness, to think, to talk, to meet people, even to find love. I met people who were trying to fight depression, recovering from addiction or trying to find a new path in life. One of the things I most enjoyed about the Camino was how different every day was. I would walk with different people of different backgrounds, the sights and the scenery was different, the weather was different, the stories you heard were different.

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For anyone who is considering doing the Camino but apprehensive or nervous. I simply couldn’t recommend doing it more. Do the whole thing, do it on your own and carry all your belongings on your back. You’ll meet a lot of people, you’ll eat a lot, you’ll drink a lot. You’ll hate it at times and you’ll constantly be sore and tired, but the sense of achievement and camaraderie will stay with you for long after the fatigue passes.